african american hair style
African American Hair Style
* Forget the fairy tales. Neither cutting hair by the full moon nor the touch
of magic hands nor applying a "miracle product" will make hair grow faster or
longer than God intended. In fact, much about your hair--length, density and
texture--is predetermined by DNA, the nucleic-acid formulas in cells that form
the molecular basis of heredity. But with proper care and maintenance your hair
can reach its lengthiest potential.
Why long hair? A sister with long hair is bound to turn heads. Joanne
Cornwell, Ph.D., chair of Africana Studies at San Diego State University in
California, our desire for length is probably influenced by messages we receive
from the predominant European-based standards of beauty. "American culture has
always associated beauty and femininity with long hair," says Cornwell. But in
many African cultures hair denotes much more. "It tells your personal
story--whether you are single or married, just had a child or are in mourning,"
she adds. Before you embark on the lengthy journey of growing long hair, examine
your motives. What does it represent to you? "Hair should complement a woman's
beauty," says Bill Lawrence of the Bill Lawrence Salon in Washington, D.C. "It
shouldn't be what defines it."
How it grows Hair grows about a third to a half inch per month, in three
stages--anagen (growth), catagen (resting) and tilogen (shedding). Dread-locks
appear to grow longer and faster, but the growth cycle is not altered by the
locking process. It "grows" long because the lock retains hair that would
normally be shed.
Stunted growth The health of hair and scalp reflects the body producing it.
Brian Thompson, a trichologist and director of product development at Philip
Kingsley Trichological Centre, says opt for a good diet over megadoses of
vitamins. "Hair needs energy and building materials--proteins and complex
carbohydrates."
There may be far more than 100,000 hairs on your head, and you may lose
between 50 and 100 a day, says Nashville dermatologist Dr. Denise M. Buntin. If
you are losing more than that, or your hair doesn't grow at all, there may be a
serious problem. Oral contraceptives, hormone-replacement therapy and
medications for high blood pressure, depression, ulcers and cancer have been
known to affect the growth of hair. So do systemic disorders, like lupus and
hypo- and hyperthyroidism, and even crash diets. "When we are suspicious about
clients' hair loss, we send them to their physician for a full check-up," says
Thompson. "With their results we can pinpoint conditions, such as low iron, that
affect the hair's health."
Breaking old (bad) habits Before assistant prosecutor Andrea Carter began
making the biweekly journey from her New Jersey office to Lila's beauty salon in
Harlem five years ago, her hair kept breaking off. She says, "I used to use a
curling iron daily and have my relaxer touch-up every four weeks." Carter, like
many sisters, couldn't understand why her hair wasn't getting longer. She didn't
realize she was destroying her hair with thermal, mechanical and chemical abuse.
Our hair comes in various textures, but it tends to be porous, as well as curly
and elliptical, and is more vulnerable to damage than Caucasian or Asian
hair.
Olive Benson of Olive's Solon in Boston believes stylists help perpetuate the
cycle of destruction by using too-strong relaxers. Then they often follow up by
using a curling iron from an uncontrollable heat source that literally burns off
the ends. Another offense, says John Atchinson, owner of eponymous salons in New
York and L.A., comes from stylists who, trying to give hair a straight,
silky-smooth finish, stretch it with a round brush and a blow-dryer. Through
healthier hair-grooming techniques--regular trims, relaxing less and opting for
wet sets over blow-drying--Carter achieved more length. "My hair is much
healthier now, and it hasn't been this long since before college," she says. Now
I only use a curling iron in an emergency."
"Although hair products cannot grow hair [except minoxidil, a prescription
solution that stimulates growth], they can create an environment that promotes
the growth of healthy hair by minimizing breakage, optimizing moisturization and
shine and strengthening hair," says Barry Williams, Soft Sheen Products' senior
research chemist. Tress-saving tactics Keep hair at its optimal best by working
these hair-care practices into your grooming routine:
* Keep the scalp clean. You don't need to "grease" it with heavy pomades or
coat it with lacquer sprays that can clog pores.
* Wash hair as needed, once every week or two, depending on your
lifestyle.
* Use a pressing cream instead of an oil to avoid frying hair.
* Stimulate your scalp nightly: Use a large paddle brush or knead it with
your fingertips.
Breakage minimizers To protect hair ends:
* Shampoo in the shower for easier detangling.
* Choose a detangling comb to accommodate your hair's thickness. The thicker
it is, the wider the teeth should be. When detangling hair, always start from
the ends and work to the root.
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